In order to make this jig a little more versatile, I decided to go with a hinge system. Angle jig for the Drill press (your drill press might tilt)Īs an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.(4) 1/4-20 T-nut (does not need to be stainless steel):.(4) 1/4-20 Nuts (does not need to be stainless steel):.(4) 1/4-20 x 1 1/4' flat head bolt (does not need to be stainless steel, does not need to be an alan wrench head):.

3/16' Dowels for your new splines holes: (or you could make your own!).Scroll on, dear spliner, scroll on! Step 1: Gather Materials / Tools Needed and Used Of course, if you've looked at the picture, it also has an aesthetic charm to it (as does my table saw variety), but its intended purpose (at least from its time slowly creeping out of its crib) is to do those things that are large and very difficult and dangerous to do on the table saw.

The table saw jig is meant to be used for things that are small and can be balanced on top, while the small, portable dowel rod spline jig has it's ultimate use as a jig for larger boxes that will not fit on the table saw.

I write all this with a smile because each's jigs job works in the inverse. Or in other words, the last one needs all the clunkiness of a table saw while this jig is portable and is content with sitting in a box quietly, with a lid on top. The last one was built to be used on your table saw, this one was not. No, honestly, this has an important function that the last one does not have. So why make a jig that essentially does the same thing as that one? That would be a good question for the very few simple humans out there that lack any sort of variety (I'm looking at both of you in the back). I did make a spline jig here, here and here (they're all the same feeds my need to feel accomplished). If concerned about this part of the process, please see visit our Pre-Glued Dowel Pin page.Yes, yes, and yes. Be cautious of over gluing as squeeze out might occur. Borings in solid wood tend to hold their diameter.Īdhesive: A standard PVA wood glue is usually sufficient. If you are working with MDF/Particle Board type material, remember that a boring will slightly contract. Chicago Dowel encourages customers to obtain samples of both types, and decide which they feel work better in their operation.īore Dimensions: The dimensions of the boring should be into which the dowel pin will fit. Spiral-Grooved Dowel Pins tend to have slightly stricter tolerances. Additionally, Multi-Grooved Dowel Pins, due to their design, slightly compress upon insertion, which some believe make them easier to work with. Studies have shown that Multi-Grooved Dowel Pin perhaps produces a slightly stronger bond. Groove Type: Both Multi- and Spiral-Grooved Dowel pins, when used properly, have ideal bonding strength. If you are using a 2” dowel pin, for example, each boring depth should be 1/16” longer than half the length of the pin, or 1.0625” Length: When determining the length of the dowel pin needed remember that 1/16” of space should be left in the boring after pin insertion, to allow for glue disbursement. If your product is 1-1/4” thick, a 7/16” diameter would be more suitable. For example, if your product is 1” thick, you should be considering a dowel pin 3/8” in diameter. Decisions to make when deciding which type of dowel pin is most suitable for your operation:ĭiameter: Ideally, the diameter of the dowel should be approximately 1/3 – and never more than 1/2 – of the thickness of the wood being joined.

3 8 wood dowel pins